As usual, our trip began with a dose of drama. Rachel and I managed to get up right on time, catch our train, and arrive at the airport with time to spare...or so we thought. We hadn't anticipated the longest check-in line ever, going the wrong way to our gate, and missing the shuttle. By the time we got on the shuttle to take us to our gate, it was about 9:28. Our flight was scheduled to take off at 9:30. We were freaking out just a little. As soon as we got off the shuttle we sprinted to our gate and got there in time to see that the doors were closed. And no one was there. Well, wait a second, no airline people were there, but lots of people were sitting in the chairs. Lots of people who spoke Italian. That's helpful. We wanted to find an airline person, but the desk at the gate was empty--just the little screen with the flight information on it. The little screen that said the flight was now taking off at 12:30! Woohoo!!! We didn't miss our flight. (Insert victory dance.) It occured to us that they were calling for snow in Prague, which could explain the delay. I'll be honest, this was the best snow delay of my life. I honestly don't know what we would have done if that plane had been on time. S0 now we had three hours to kill. About a half hour or so was spent trying to figure out the stupid pay phones so that I could call George and tell him we'd be three hours late. Then we had time for breakfast and shopping. We even thought to buy a gift for George and Marketa (our Mom's would be so proud).
Our 12:30 flight took off around 1:00 or so, but at least we made it. The view as we were landing in Prague was gorgeous. The ground was blanketed in snow and it looked so pristine. Once we were in the city, though, most of the snow was gone. Even so, the city was beautiful. Rachel and i met George at his office and we walked to his apartment. He and Marketa live on the top two floors of the apartment building. Their top floor is one story higher than the adjacent building, so they have a view of the entire city. It's spectacular, especially at night. After we dropped of our things, George led us into town. He walked us to the main street, Wenceslas Square, and told us to meet him back for dinner at 7. We walked through the square, which isn't a square at all but a wide avenue flanked by stores that originates at the National Museum and culminates at the border of Old Town. We continued into the Old Town where (after a few wrong turns) we found ourselves in the square. It was dark by now, and the astrological clock was lit up. We had a few munites to walk around the square before it was time to head back for dinner.
Friday we had all day to roam the city. Before setting out we bundled up to ward off hypothermia. (Rachel's from NC and I just don't like the cold--we were not meant for this weather.) With two pairs of socks, tights under my jeans, a long-sleeved shirt, a sweatshirt, my Northface, leather gloves, the scarf I bought in Rome and a hat I bought the night before, I was ready to go! George offered to help Rachel and I get started on our tour of the city. He took us to a bakery for breakfast and then put us on a tram with very specific instructions. He clearly had little faith in our navigational skills; as he handed us our tickets he pointed out our stop, showed us where we were to get off, told us how to go fom there, and all but followed us onto the bus. It was a good thing did all that though, because we'd ave been so lost otherwise. As per his instructions, we got off at the stop behind the old castle. From there, we followed the tourist signs (which were not so helpfully written in Czech) to the entrance.
Castle entrance, with very serious guards
I thought this was going to be a take-a-picture-and-move-along site, but boy was I wrong. We went into the courtyard and decided we wanted to tour the cathedral. When you buy the pass, itincludes all of these other places, too. We bought an audio guide, which looks like an ancient cell phone and has an English recording explaining everything in the cathedral. While the recording man was a bit longwinded, I am glad we had him because we learned so much about the history of the cathedral and about St. Wenceslas (yes, of Wenceslas Square, and the Christmas carol). The cathedral was sectioned off into a number of chapels, which we heard about. We also got to see the room with St. Wenceslas' tomb, but we couldn't go inside. We learned that behind that room is where they keep the crown jewels. The door that leads to them has seven locks, which are opened by seven different keys. There are seven Czech heads of state that each have one key and they all have to be together to open the door. The jewels are only taken out on impotant state holidays (makes sense seeing as all the impotant state people have to be there) so we couldn't see them. But recording man told us what they looked like. That was the end of the cathedral tour, but the ticket got us into some other places too. We mostly went in them all because it was so cold that we were looking for any excuse to be inside, but I enjoyed most of them. We were able to explore other parts of the castle, visit an art museum, and a travel (aka march behind an old man) down a street with all these cute old shops.
(I did this for a pretty long time, so Rachel could get a good picture, but he never noticed)
We'd spent the whole morning at the castle, and were starving, so we set off to find food and continue our tour of the city. Our plan to follow the touristy signs was complicated by the fact that on the road outside the castle, signs pointed in both directions. Again, with them being in Czech, we had to go by the tiny pictures. Well, there's a building over that way...and some other buildings this way. We decided to go to the right because it was downhill. At the bottom of the hill we found a cute little restaurant with English menus and a veggie option. Yay food! And yay heat! I had a delicious vegetable risotto and a newfound appreciation for warm, hearty food on a cold day. After a nice leisurly meal, we continued on our way. The street leading down from the castle has all these palace buildings that royal people used to live in. According to George, most of them are now embassies, or something. Whatever they were, they were very cool. The architecture here is remarkable. Apparently, the city suffered considerably less damage during World War II than some other major cities in the region, allowing most of its historic architecture to stay true to form. It contains one of the world's most varied collections of architecture, from Art Nouveau, to Baroque, Renaissance, Cubist, Gothic, Neo-Classical and ultra-modern. I of course can't tell you which of these is what, but I do know that it makes Prague a very popular place to shoot movies (more on that later).
We continued to wind our way through Old Town, stopping at a few other churches to take pictures. We also took frequent shopping breaks. Surpisingly, we bought fairly little in the way of souveniers in Italy. Now was the perfect time for a little retail therapy, most of which was geared towards finding Christmas presents. It helped that we were so cold that we'd take any excuse to go inside.
We croseed over the Charles Bridge sometime in the afternoon, which brough us back over to George's side of the river. This was the side we had explored the night before. The one area we hadn't had time to see was the Jewish quarter. This area of town is home to the oldest active synangogue in Europe and a large Jewish cemetary. It was getting dark at this point, but we managed to get a few pictures of the cemetary gates. We made plans to come back the next day to get a better look.
City and the river from Charles Bridge
We were meant to call George and arrange dinner plans, but our phones didn't work, so we headed back to the apartment hoping to find him. Fortunately Marketa was home and she filled us in on the plans. We met George soon after at an Italian restaurant they'd told us about. From the street, it looks like a diner, cafe-type place, but downstairs is a nice dining room. The restaurant is owned by an Italian family, so it's authentic Italian food. George said this would make up for the night we ate Chinese food in Rome, and it certainly did. This might have been better than anything we ate in Italy. It was a proper dinner, with separate courses and endless glasses of wine (we couldn't afford such luxuries when we were actually in Italy). It was definitely the best meal we had all week. I had bean soup and some pasta dish with lots of veggies (boring, whatever, it's what I like). And did I mention the continuous flow of red wine--good red wine. Oh, and then there was the dessert selection. Rachel and I both went with the tiramisu. George introduced us to limoncello, an after dinner drink, even though the last thing we needed was another drink. Our dinner lasted at least 2 hours, and we got to tell George and Marketa all about our day. They seemed very pleased that we enjoyed the city so much. Oh, and another fun factoid about the restaurant--remember how I said Prague is a big city for filming movies? Well, apparently this is the place all the stars come to eat. They like it because it's very well hidden, and the food is great. One whole wall is covered with picturesof celebreties who have visited. Geoge and Marketa have seen a handful,including Mogan Freeman. We didn't get to see any celebreties the night we were there....hmmm, I guess we'll just have to come back.
The amazing view of the city from their balcony at night
Sunday morning we woke up and it was snowing again, so being the 5-year-olds that we are, we went outside. We walked down to the Wenceslas square, then to the Old Town. Lots more picture taking ensued. We had some time before we needed to go back to catch our taxi, so we thought we'd head back to the Jewish Quarter and and see some more of it. It was a nice plan in theory, and while we did manage to see some very nice side streets, we never actually found the Jewish Quarter again. Running out of time, we had to head back to the apartment, where we gathered our bags, said a quick goodbye to George and Marketa and took off for the airport.
Last stop: Geneva!





